Why I Finally Bought a Dash Cam
Last year, someone backed into my parked car and drove off. No witnesses. No note. Just a dented bumper and a $400 deductible.
That’s when I stopped thinking of dash cams as optional. Now I won’t drive without one. If you’ve ever been in a “he said, she said” insurance situation, you get it.
Here’s what I learned researching and testing dash cams for the past year.
Quick Comparison
| Dash Cam | Resolution | Front + Rear | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Viofo A139 Pro | 4K | Yes | Complete coverage |
| Garmin 67W | 1440p | Front only | Reliability |
| Vantrue N4 | 1440p+1080p+1080p | Triple | Rideshare drivers |
| 70mai A810 | 4K | Yes | Budget 4K |
| Rexing V1 | 1080p | Front only | First-time buyers |
Viofo A139 Pro 3CH: When You Want Everything Covered
I’ll admit it - this is overkill for most people. Three cameras (front, rear, interior), true 4K on the front, and the best night vision I’ve tested.
But if you drive for a living, park in sketchy areas, or just want the peace of mind that comes from capturing every angle? This is the one.
The footage quality is genuinely impressive. I could read license plates clearly from three car lengths back, even at dusk. The Sony STARVIS 2 sensor handles low light situations that cheaper cameras turn into grainy messes.
What makes it worth the price:
- 4K front camera captures details you’ll actually be able to use
- Three-channel setup means no blind spots
- Night footage is remarkably clear
- GPS logs speed and location automatically
- Parking mode catches incidents when you’re away
The downsides:
- Installation is involved - lots of cables to route
- You’re paying premium prices
- Requires a decent SD card (not included)
- Can run warm in summer heat
Who should buy this: Rideshare drivers, people with long commutes, anyone who’s been burned by parking lot incidents before.
Garmin Dash Cam 67W: The One That Just Works
I’ve recommended this to at least five friends because it’s impossible to mess up.
The 180-degree lens means you don’t have to worry about aiming it perfectly. Voice commands work reliably (“OK Garmin, save video”). And Garmin’s track record means this thing will probably outlast your car.
My unit has survived two Arizona summers mounted to the windshield. It’s never crashed, never corrupted an SD card, never failed to record when I needed it. That reliability is worth something.
What I appreciate:
- Ultra-wide 180-degree view catches everything
- Voice control actually works
- Tiny and almost invisible
- Garmin quality means it’s built to last
- Cloud backup keeps footage safe (with subscription)
The tradeoffs:
- Front only - rear camera costs extra
- Cloud features require monthly subscription
- Not 4K (1440p is still plenty for plates)
Who should buy this: Anyone who wants to mount it and forget it exists until they need it.
Vantrue N4: Built for Rideshare Drivers
If you drive for Uber, Lyft, or any passenger service, stop reading and just get this one.
The three-camera setup records the road, your rear window, AND your interior with infrared night vision. Passenger makes a false claim? You have footage. Accident wasn’t your fault? Prove it. Creepy late-night rider? Documented.
The supercapacitor (instead of a lithium battery) means it handles extreme heat without swelling or dying. Important if you’re driving all day in summer.
What rideshare drivers need to know:
- Interior infrared camera works in complete darkness
- Supercapacitor survives extreme temperatures
- 24/7 parking surveillance option
- Three separate video files for easy incident review
- Loop recording manages storage automatically
Considerations:
- It’s bulky - passengers will notice it
- Some riders might feel uncomfortable being recorded (post a sign)
- No SD card included - budget for a good one
Who should buy this: Uber/Lyft drivers, taxi drivers, anyone who regularly has passengers in their vehicle.
70mai A810: 4K Quality Without 4K Prices
Chinese dash cam brands can be hit or miss, but 70mai has earned a solid reputation. The A810 punches well above its price point.
You get real 4K recording, HDR for handling sun glare and headlights, and a modern app experience. The footage quality approaches cams twice the price.
I was skeptical about the “4K” claim (lots of cameras upscale and call it 4K), but this is legitimate. License plates are crisp even in challenging conditions.
Why it’s worth considering:
- Genuine 4K recording at a budget price
- HDR handles difficult lighting well
- Clean, minimal design
- App works better than expected
- ADAS alerts for lane departure (actually useful)
What to know:
- Brand support in the US isn’t Garmin-level
- App can be glitchy occasionally
- Rear camera sold separately
- Instructions could be clearer
Who should buy this: Budget-conscious buyers who don’t want to sacrifice quality.
Rexing V1: The Sub-$50 Starting Point
Here’s my advice for first-time dash cam buyers: don’t overthink it. Get something cheap, use it, and upgrade later if you want more features.
The Rexing V1 is that something cheap. It’s 1080p, has a wide angle lens, automatically overwrites old footage, and saves crash clips. That’s all a basic dash cam needs to do.
Is the night footage great? No. Is the build quality premium? Also no. But it works, and it costs less than a tank of gas.
What you get for the price:
- Functional 1080p recording
- 170-degree wide angle
- G-sensor saves impact footage
- No app or subscription needed
- Simple setup
What you sacrifice:
- Night footage is mediocre at best
- No parking mode
- Plastic construction feels cheap
- No GPS logging
Who should buy this: First-timers, budget-constrained buyers, or anyone who just wants basic protection without research paralysis.
What Resolution Actually Matters?
After testing cameras across the resolution spectrum, here’s my take:
1080p is fine for proving fault in accidents. You can usually read plates in good conditions. File sizes are manageable. This is the minimum I’d recommend.
1440p is the sweet spot. Noticeably clearer than 1080p, especially for plate reading at distance. Moderate file sizes. This is what I’d recommend for most people.
4K is nice to have but not necessary. Crystal clear footage, but huge files that fill SD cards fast. Worth it if you drive professionally or want maximum detail.
Features That Actually Matter vs Marketing Fluff
Essential:
- Loop recording (auto-deletes old footage when storage fills)
- G-sensor (automatically saves footage when impact detected)
- Decent night vision (you drive at night, presumably)
- Wide angle lens (140 degrees or wider)
Genuinely Useful:
- GPS (proves your speed and location)
- Parking mode (catches hit-and-runs)
- Wi-Fi (transfer clips to phone without removing SD card)
Usually Gimmicky:
- ADAS features (lane departure warnings are annoying and unreliable)
- Touchscreens (distracting while driving)
- “AI” anything (marketing speak)
Installation: DIY or Professional?
I installed my first dash cam myself using YouTube tutorials. It took about an hour and looks reasonably clean.
For a single front-facing camera with a cigarette lighter plug, DIY is straightforward. Tuck the cable along the headliner, down the A-pillar, and across to your power source.
For multi-camera setups or hardwired installations (required for parking mode), I’d pay a professional. Car audio shops typically charge $50-150. Worth it for a clean install and functional parking surveillance.
The Bottom Line
Want the best? Viofo A139 Pro handles every scenario
Want reliability? Garmin 67W is set-and-forget
Drive for rideshare? Vantrue N4 protects you from passengers
Budget-conscious? 70mai A810 delivers quality at a fair price
Just getting started? Rexing V1 costs less than one insurance deductible
A dash cam paid for itself the first time I needed footage. Whatever your budget, get one.
Prices change frequently. Check current price before buying.